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Modern vs. traditional: an interview with two chefs

12.12.2022

from Desiree

From Wiener schnitzel to toque-awarded menu

One profession, two worlds: The catering and hotel industry is full of contrasts. The country's kitchens are also full of contrasts. HOGASTJOB took a closer look and asked two chefs to talk to us.

On the one hand Erwin Windhaber, two-time award-winning chef at the Hofmeisterei restaurant in Krems, and on the other Markus Ebner, chef at the Hotel Kärtnerhof. The ambitious chef from Bad Kleinkirchheim appreciates good, Austrian dishes and the fluid work processes in a hotel kitchen. Find out what else the two professional chefs have to say!

Two worlds, two chefs in the cooking check:

Wiener schnitzel, spaghetti bolognese and co. are served several times a day in the hotel kitchen by chef Markus Ebner. For Erwin Windhaber, à la carte dishes, creative compositions and menu sequences play an important role. The two-time award-winning chef serves guests at the Hofmeisterei true culinary delights. We wanted to know from both chefs what the reasons were for their cooking careers.

HOGASTJOB: What criteria do you use to determine the focus of your menus?
Markus Ebner, chef at Hotel Kärntnerhof: Clearly seasonality and availability. A balanced mix of international, national and regional products is also important. We clearly focus on regional products here.

Erwin Windhaber, two-time award-winning chef at the Hofmeisterei restaurant: I agree with my colleague on that! My guests get seasonal produce on their plates. I also maintain close personal contact with all our producers and suppliers. This ensures that I not only get beautiful and particularly fresh food, but that I can also use regional products.

HOGASTJOB: How do you currently perceive the industry? Is there a lot of competition?
Markus: There is certainly a lot of competition in the restaurant sector. There are also many different concepts and interesting offers for guests. Of course, we shouldn't overlook the huge price pressure that the entire industry is under. All in all, it is therefore difficult to find good employees.

HOGASTJOB: What do you recommend to young chefs if they want to pursue a career as a gourmet chef? Which paths should they definitely take? What goals should they not lose sight of?

Or to put it another way: Are there any up-and-coming talents in the pipeline? Or how do you view the problem of a lack of young talent in the industry?

Erwin: Well, my path was pretty clearly defined from the outset. My parents had a wine tavern where I helped out as a child. So it was always clear to me that I wanted to become a chef!

It's important to be passionate about what you do. Because only if you put your heart and soul into it and are fully committed to it can you win and drive yourself to peak performance. Chefs should never forget one thing: standing still is poison! Continuous training, getting to know different award-winning restaurants and thinking about the business are all part of the job.

Markus: There will always be talent. It will be a problem if fewer and fewer young people decide to do an apprenticeship in gastronomy.

HOGASTJOB: What characterizes your style as a chef?
Erwin: My top priority is always the original product. Every food has its own flavor, which you should never cover up with anything else. I have therefore made it my mission to focus on each product and its taste. You should always be able to recognize what's on the plate.

HOGASTJOB: How do you always manage to stay creative, develop new ideas and conjure up daring combinations on the plate without the fire going out?
Markus: You can get ideas everywhere. Whether in magazines, books, cooking shows, product presentations or from a wide variety of suppliers: Every chef is only a luminary in the kitchen as long as he dares to experiment.

Erwin: It is very important that every chef develops their own signature style. A regular guest should be able to tell when their favourite chef is at the stove. I also rely on conversations with colleagues. A lively exchange is important and increases variety and creativity enormously. I also try to combine and use different cooking techniques. It never hurts to try something new!

HOGASTJOB: Your personal favorite dish is ...
Markus:... a well-cooked boiled beef with roast potatoes and breadcrumbs. In my opinion, there's nothing better.

Erwin: I go for the classic: a Wiener schnitzel with potato salad. Without much chichi.

HOGASTJOB: Strict rules in the kitchen? What are your views?
Erwin: Rules are important, and no kitchen can function without good organization. Nevertheless, you shouldn't forget to have fun and enjoy your work. Every chef is only as good as the team behind them.

Markus: I agree that certain basic rules are necessary for good teamwork and to ensure a smooth workflow. Each kitchen manager has to decide for themselves how strict they want to be.

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